Sorbetto Pattern Adjustments

Taped up downloaded Sorbetto pattern

So let's get to the details! I patch-worked the print-at-home pattern and traced it off onto pattern paper. Then it took quite a few pattern alterations to get it to fit well, so I thought I'd detail the pattern for anyone else wanting to learn to alter to fit themselves better.

Sorbetto Pattern Alterations

Based on initial measurements of the pattern, I realised that the top would be way too short for me. I started by extending the length of the of the bodice in two places - at the notch by 9 cm and then at the hem for another 2 cm, giving me a total of 11 cm extra (see, way too short!)

I then looked at the width and identified the need for an FBA, before sewing up my first toile. When I made this up in my first fashion fabric, I decided to add some subtle waist-shaping that is also shown below.

Front and Back adjustments

The first fitting highlighted the need to make a few more changes - I extended and increased the size of the dart to remove some more fullness and identified the need to alter the back as well to remove a little fullness, so I introduced a centre back seam. This made it much easier to remove this fullness.

I also lowered the sleeve, as I was finding it was cutting into my underarm a little. It was only slight but still worth the adjustment.

In the second toile, I decided to drop the position of the dart as it was sitting slightly too high on me. I only dropped it by about 1-1.5cms, keeping the angle the same.

Shifted dart down (pink is the original placement, blue is the new placement)

Sleeve Pattern Alterations

I decided to make my first version with sleeves, using the free sleeve pattern made by Mena at Sew Weekly and then updated by Sew, Incidentally).

I measured the sleeve against my altered Sorbetto and realised that it was too small, so I assume the free pattern was for a smaller Sorbetto size. So I did a bit of slashin' and spreadin' to make the sleeve the right size.

In the image below, you can see the method I used. I marked the lines on the pattern to show where I wanted to cut the sleeve up and number each piece so I wouldn't get confused. I then marked a line on another piece of paper (pink line) and used this to line up the lines. I then split the sleeve up by 1 cm in 5 places, as per the yellow lines, based on the amount of additional sleeve I needed to fit the bodice of my pattern. In order to ensure the sleeve head was still well-shaped, I raised the middle sections by either .5 or 1 cm. Once I had the graded sleeve, I re-traced this onto another piece of pattern paper. I smoothed the edges out as I retraced and then re-confirmed that the sleeve would fit correctly.

Sleeve adjustments

When I made up my second toile, I found that the sleeve kind of stuck out (like little wings!), so I pinned out the fullness in a couple of places. I then transferred the changes to the pattern and started cutting out my real fabric!

Final sleeve, showing removed fullness

Final patterns with all adjustments

Once I'd made this up in my first fashion fabric, I found that the neckline was wider than I liked and also lower at the back than I would prefer for work tops. So for my second version, I altered the neckline by raising it at the back by 5 cm and at the shoulders by 2 cm. I didn't alter the front neckline at all, as this was perfect already!

Neckline alterations (front and back)

Neckline alterations close up

Finished tops to follow shortly :)

Good-bye 2012, Hello 2013!

There's nothing like a firework filled skyline to bring in the new year!

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I've been reading my favourite blog summaries of 2012 and plans for 2013 and everyone is so inspiring. I don't really have a lot to recap for 2012, since my blog is still in it's infancy however the most exciting sewing event was my return to weekly sewing classes. It's been a great way to get back into more consistent sewing,  improving my pattern drafting and altering skills, sewing skills and having loads of fun on a Saturday morning with the sewing gals!

I also entered the Tessuti Awards for the first time. Whilst I didn't win, I really enjoyed challenging myself to sew to a theme and to extend my sewing, pattern drafting and pattern draping skills. The stripe matching took quite a bit of time, patience and hand-sewing but it was 100% worth it! If anyone is interesting a reading about the process, let me know and I'll do a blog post about it.

Close up shots of my Tessuti Awards 2012 entry. For more photos, see my entry page.

The next highlight is getting a blog up and running. I've spent a lot of time playing around with the look and feel of the blog and bringing any valuable posts over from my old and quiet blog! Since I still feel like I'm only just kicking off my new blog, I'm calling today my official blog starting day for anniversary purposes. Woo!

So onto planning for 2013

• I feel like my blog is a big part of my plans for 2013. I would like to blog at least once every week but I'm not going to beat myself up if I don't!
• One of the key reasons why I started sewing, was to be able to get great fitting clothes which is difficult with RTW due to my height. So focusing on fit is an important part of my year. I'm not one to turn out a garment a week (hats off to those who can do that!), so I'm not going to pressure myself to churn out garments when it's just not feasible for me.
• I've toyed with the idea of doing a SWAP over at Artisan Square and the rules this year look achievable. I've been doing a lot of planning, selecting patterns and pre-treating of fabrics.
• Get more involved in the blogging community. I'm an avid reader of quite a few blogs but I tend to keep quiet and rarely post comments. This is something I want to change! I just need to work out the most efficient way to do this, particularly using my commute. I normally read blogs on my RSS reader but never really got the hang of commenting at the same time. So that is something I want to change!
• Make some of the things I've pinned. I love pinterest and am addicted to pinning all manner of pictures but I rarely make the time to go back and make up some of the items.

So here's to an awesome 2013!

Sewing Sorbetto

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After seeing so many beautiful Sorbetto tops on the blogosphere, I've wanted to make my own version for some time now.

It's hard to believe that it was released as a free pattern a little over 1 year ago in May 2011 from the awesome Colette Patterns. There are so many inspirational Sorbetto versions out there (head over to my Sorbetto inspiration board on Pinterest to see what I mean) and it's hard to not be inspired by them - there's even a free sleeve pattern to vary it further! It's such a versatile pattern and can be tweaked to create many variations. It was also voted as #2 in Pattern Review's Best Patterns of 2011. In short, it's a winner!

I've been altering this pattern for a few weeks now and I think I'm pretty close with completing all the necessary adjustments. It's a simple silhouette but I wanted to focus on fabulous fit, so I've made 2 toiles and countless tweaks. I should have my first pattern adjustment post this weekend, so stay tuned!

P.S. Welcome to my new blog url. I've been shifting posts from my old blog to here and re-focusing the content. I hope you enjoy the ride!

Working on having a plan - Weekly Goals 21 March - 27 March 2011

My sewing has slowed a lot of late, particularly since I stopped taking classes. My head is still full of so many ideas (and my cupboards are full of awesome fabric and patterns!) so I want to try and channel my creative energy by setting weekly goals.
So welcome to my first "Weekly Goals" post!

Goals for 21 March - 27 March 2011

• Finish my Vogue 8506 (first blogged about here)

• Do some lining and underlining practice, as I'm currently doing the Pattern Review classes on these topics (which are great but I'm yet to sit down and practice!)

• Exercise daily - including all the classes I'm booked in for

• Make some cards using stamped images coloured with copics.

• Post the backlog of written posts!

• Tool roll for my Scrapbooking files

• Knitting needle roll, based on this awesome tutorial, with another two here and here

• Warm PJ pants, as the weather is getting colder here but I'm waiting on my Jalie order for Jalie 2686

And then there's the RTW Sew-Along. This is one I'll be reading with excitement and taken notes on too. I see a RTW style coat in my near future, especially with winter around the corner :)


Ideas for next week (my idea list is way longer than this, but this is a short list of what I want to work on in the near future)
Oh and have you seen the latest Sew-Alongs to hit the blogosphere? After the awesomely successful Men's Shirt Sew-Along at MPB, Peter is hosting a Jeans party Sew-Along. I have my Jalie 2908 en route but I'm not sure if I'll join the Sew-Along. I'll probably just watch from the sideline taking notes so that when I'm ready to make jeans I'll have all the info on hand!

Sewing up Vogue 8506, view D

I've been working on this bag since late last year and I think it's getting close to being finished. I had to make a few minor changes to the construction and have added some extra features (additional internal zip pocket, snap clasps instead of tabs on the sides) and I'm also looking at adding a d-ring on the inside so that I can add a removable wallet and also a clip for my keys. But I'm still working on those parts! That and the extra pocket (based on the internal pocket from Vogue 8590 by Marcy Tilton)

Oh and I've also finally joined Tasia's Pendrell Sew-Along and Peter's Shirt Sew-Along as I was inspired by this totally awesome version of the Negroni. My brother has given this fabric the tick of approval too, so it looks like I will be making something like this for him. I have my Pendrell fabric but it probably won't be sewn up for a few months due to other commitments. And I have my Negroni pattern and fabric on order, so I think I'll be late on that too! I also wanted to join Sunni's Pant Sew-Along but that's another one I'll be doing later on. So many sew-alongs in January and I just don't have the time for all of them!!! lol oh well

2010 recap and 2011 goals

I can't believe it's day 2 of 2011 - where did 2010 go? I feel like it went really fast and was a so-so year for me. So I was ready to bring on 2011!

From a sewing goals perspective, I don't think I did that well in 2010. I did sew more but no where near what I wanted. I started lots of sew-alongs and finished ... none. Terrible, I know!

So that brings me to 2011 ... I'm calling it the year of finishing things, since I've identified that I start lots of things but finish very few. I think my list of UFOs doesn't quite capture all of my UFOs (I have sewing, scrapbooking and knitting UFOs!) so I will be working to update that list to give myself a good target.

I've also decided to try to keep posts sewing related with the occasional non-sewing but craft related post thrown in for good measure. I'm also planning to blog at least once a week - I know, considering my last year that will be tough but I'm up for the challenge!!

Thinking about SWAP 2011

Part of me thinks it could be madness but it could be a good chance to make some good progress on building my wardrobe in preparation for *gulp* Me-Made-March and/or Me-Made-May ...

For the planning thread, have a look at this

Some inspiring posts already:

• Sophisticate SWAP
• A cool idea for a plan
• Last years rules