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Building a complete me-made wardrobe: Corporate wardrobe based on a men's wardrobe (Part 2)

 

 See my set for the interchangeable or minimum wardrobe on Polyvore

 
I reviewed two different posts regarding establishing a wardrobe for men on the Art of Manliness site. I was interested in the Interchangeable Wardrobe and How to Build a Manly Wardrobe, and then how these might translate into an equivalent wardrobe for women. I like the simplicity and versatility of the interchangeable wardrobe and then I can see how the second list is an 'end-goal' for a wardrobe that would be built up over many years. The mapping of the men to women's wardrobes are shown below.

Interchangeable Wardrobes

A Complete Wardrobe for a Constant Professional

Comparing the two lists

I thought it would be interesting to see how these two compared, since the interchangeable is a great entry point and stepping stone to a more fleshed out wardrobe. Due to the size of this image, it is best viewed by clicking on it to see it full-scale!

Pros and things I learnt

• Good basics for a corporate wardrobe.
• Highlights essentials in a men’s corporate wardrobe that can be transferred to a women’s wardrobe. I have a clearer view of the fabrics I should be selecting for my suits, trousers and shirts required to have a well co-ordinated and chic corporate wardrobe.

Challenges or Gaps?

• No dresses or skirts.
• Minimum casual and weekend wear.
• Potentially lacking in colour, flair or personality?
• Fewer combinations, due to the way females combine and layer clothing?
• Undergarments missing (e.g. bras, layering camisoles and singlets).
• After I put this list together, I came across The Daily Connoisseur and her focus on a 10 core item wardrobe. I have watched a few of her YouTube videos (1, 2, 3) and one of her wardrobes was around 14 items but this isn't everything in her wardrobe. I think that this is important, because the 'extras' that she mentions really allow a person to extend the rotation of the core 14 items and really flesh out the wardrobe. These include things like basic tees,
  sweaters & cardigans, outerwear (trench coats, blazer, jackets), special occasion wear, accessories (scarves, bags, shoes, sunglasses) undergarments, shoes and so on, which for my purposes are part of the wardrobe but I can see the benefits of the extras being fairly constant and the 10-14 items being rotated seasonally. I also love her focus on quality items that will last a long time and also how to care for your garments. Her concept is certainly food for thought and only adds more valuable information in my quest to build my wardrobe! I am still reading more about this one and will be sure to do a summary post (that will now be part 6!)

Building a complete me-made wardrobe (Part 1)

Edited to add some new-to-me resources and an updated plan.

Personally, I love the idea of a capsule wardrobe! I mean, who doesn't love the thought of being able to open up their closet to find a beautifully curated set of clothing items that all work together and making dressing so much easier!

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I find when I start to try to create a capsule wardrobe however, it's not as easy as "pick 20-40 items that work well together and your done!". Everyone has a different style aesthetic and the essential items for one person may not work for another. So, I started to look at many different capsule wardrobe "systems" to see if I could come up with my own. Based on all my reading, I am now working on not creating a capsule wardrobe but a complete wardrobe. This includes garments for all facets of my life.

The main sources I have used so far are:

• The Lucky Shopping Manual (Amazon or Book Depository). This book focuses on the essentials and extras you need for a complete wardrobe. According to Amazon, I bought this in 2005 and it is still essential (still invaluable although some images are starting to date slightly)
• Colette Patterns Wardrobe Architect. This was run in 2014 and kicked off again in 2015 and I am working through this as part of defining my ideal wardrobe. It is helping me to stop and think about the style, colours, silhouettes etc... that I am most drawn to and hence should be the foundation of my wardrobe.
• The Into Mind blog. There are many, many posts that I am reading and a key starting point is Building a Capsule Wardrobe 101. They also have a workbook for €20, which I am considering purchasing although I'm not sure how much it overlaps with the Wardrobe Architect?
• The Art of Manliness: How to Build a Wardrobe for Men {link to part 1}. This is probably a strange one however since I am trying to build a corporate wardrobe full of suits, I've been interested in seeing what is considered a complete professional man's wardrobe, since it is comprised of suits and related garments. I have mapped the Constant Professional wardrobe to a female equivalent, which I will post soon. This site also has some great articles on clothing care.
• Unfancy. This blog proposes that a 37-piece wardrobe (excluding workout clothes, jewellery, accessories, purses, swimsuits, pajamas/loungewear, underwear and trash-jeans). I like the concept but many of the exclusions are what I want to include in my essential wardrobe.

Other books I'm looking at but don't own. If you own these and can provide a view on their usefulness, please let me know:

• The Style Checklist (Amazon or Book Depository).
• The One Hundred (Amazon or Book Depository).

Since there is a lot to explore, I will be breaking my discovery process down as follows:

• Part 2: Defining a corporate wardrobe based on a men's suit wardrobe
• Part 3: Detailed list of Corporate Wardrobe items
• Part 4: Wardrobe Architect: what I have learned through this process
• Part 5: The outcome of following the steps on the Into Mind blog
• Part 6: The Lucky Shopping Manual
• Part 7: 10 piece wardrobe by The Daily Connoisseur and YouTube (edited to add this)
• Part 8: Building a Wardrobe based on The Vivienne Files (edited to add this)
• Part 9: Pulling it all together: mapping the different wardrobes
• Part 10: My complete wardrobe list & sewing plan

Good-bye 2014, Hello 2015!!

I've really loved reading everyone's wrap up of 2014. The New Year is always a nice time to stop, reflect and to think about what next.

My year was quite eventful with a job change and studying part time but I still managed to churn out a bit. I'm quite a slow sewer, which I'm totally ok with, so I was happy to produce about 10 tops, mostly for work with a couple of silk and lace ones for more special occasions. None of these are blogged but I will hopefully get these photographed so that I can blog them.

As for my 'resolutions' there are a few key sewing related goals that I have. I have other non-sewing goals, but I'll keep that from this blog :)

>>> Goal 1 <<<

First, I have sighed up for the Goodbye Valentino RTW Fast for 2015. I seriously considered doing this last year but ended up not doing it, so this year, I'm in! I know that sale time is when I will find this the most difficult. I still need to work out what I consider ok to buy, since I can't sew everything. So far, I'm thinking undergarments and workout gear is a possibility but since this is on my 'learn to sew' list, why not start this year! I just need to find some decent fabric suitable to exercise wear.

>>> Goal 2 <<<

Limit fabric purchases. This will definitely be harder than no RTW but I'm still keen to make a dent in my stash, so this one stays. If I need to make something to keep my RTW Fast Pledge, then I will purchase fabrics. I may also give myself a small allowance so that I don't have to go cold turkey.

>>> Goal 3 <<<

Build a capsule complete wardrobe. This one is something that I have been thinking a lot about and will put all my thoughts together in a post but the key thing for me is building a wardrobe that will work for me. By that, I don't mean a wardrobe that fits some definition of the perfect capsule wardrobe but instead one that works for me. I have looked at quite a few capsule recommendations and I feel like none of them will work for me but are a great jumping off point. There is definitely more to come on this one and it will drive what I sew in 2015.

>>> Goal 4 <<<

Focus on building my sewing skills. This is something that requires a list!

Pattern Anthology video

I first heard about Pattern Anthology when Julia Bobbin posted her fabulous Parisian Tops from the Just Add Jeans collection. I was instantly in love with the beautiful patterns and versatility of the tops in the collection. I could see them being made up as casual or dressy tops, depending on the fabrics used and the bottoms that they were coordinated with (e.g. jeans, dress pants, suit pants, skirts).

So I quickly snapped up a copy of the entire Just Add Jeans collection and they are sitting waiting patiently for me to get started on them!

In the meantime, I also found this fantastic video about Pattern Anthology. I just want to meet and hangout with these amazing women!

Pattern Anthology from Collin Kartchner on Vimeo.

The Great British Sewing Bee - Series Two

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Have you been watching the Great British Sewing Bee? If not, get to it - I'll wait!

Seriously, the show is fantastic! I fell in love with the show in Series One and was so excited when they not only came back for Series Two but they DOUBLED the number of episodes. That's right, twice the sewing awesomeness! (oh and there is a Series Three planned too - woo hoo!!)

I love that the contestants are competitive but also seem to develop genuine friendships - the sewing room seems like it would be an amazing space to sew in (not to mention the haberdashery!). In addition, Claudia does a great job hosting the show and Patrick and May always have good feedback for the sewers garments. I'm sure I'm not the only person to critique my sewing and think, "I wonder what May and Patrick would say about this?" Well, maybe it is just me ...

So, I would suggest that if you haven't already, make yourself a cuppa and settle in to watch the show. You would regret it!

Also, the finale was this week, so Googling "Great British Sewing Bee" is likely to produce hits that tell you who won. So if you want it to be a surprise, don't Google it and go straight to the BBC site!

Fabric shopping in Singapore

You might want to get a cup of tea before you start reading this post - I've included as much detail as possible and the post is very pic heavy!

View from my hotel room (level 37 of Swissotel Stamford Plaza, Singapore)

At the start of March I had to go to Singapore for 10 days for work. It's not quite the same as a holiday but I certainly made the most of my time there - especially since we were there for a weekend! What did that mean? Fabric Shopping!!

My shopping plan

I did some research before my trip, which included the following links. Kat from All the whimsical things also gave me some great suggestions when I put a call out on twitter for suggestions (thanks Kat!).

• Sewing Supplies in Singapore @ notabilia
• Fabric Sources @ Sew Convert

So when Saturday rolled around, I was ready to head out to the following (there are more places listed on notabilia but these were my shortlist):

• Arab St (nearest MRT station Bugis) - I planned to just explore the shops here, with Alta Moda and Collezione definitely on my hit list. The stores I purchased from are as follows:
• Kadir: 116 Arab St (Tel: 62 945 787). Beautiful quilting cottons and other cottons. Cash only.
• Aladdin's Exclusive: 110 Arab St (Tel: (65) 6398 0944). An assortment of silks, laces, polyesters at varying prices. I was sold $5 'silk' which I knew was really polyester but the prints were lovely so I wasn't too fussed. Still, buyer beware!
• At this stage, I decided stopping at every shop would take me all day ... so I moved onto my must visits!
• Teng Joo: 102 Arab St. I only browsed and was so overwhelmed by the rolls and rolls and rolls in large containers. I'm told the prices are cheap but nothing was labeled, so I wasn't sure what was what. I'm sure there are gems to be found but it would require some time and patience to dig!
• Alta Moda: 92 Arab St (Tel: (65) 6296-7117, email: sales@altamoda.com.sg). Some seriously stunning fabrics. Silks (non-branded, Valentino, Pucci, Ungaro, to name a few), suiting and shirt fabrics upstairs (including Ermenegildo Zegna, Roberto Di Camerino and Lanifico Di Tollegna, among other designer labels) and some Chanel fabrics. Anita served me and was lovely and incredibly helpful.
• Collezione: 99 Arab St (Tel: (65) 6292 5755, email: farooq@quattro.com.sg). Gorgeous silks from Italy and Korea. Also had some lovely linens.
• Jalan Sultan Textile Centre (200 Jalan Sultan). Three floors of sewing supplies and also an amazing looking suit fabric supply store. Not all stores are open on a weekend, so weekdays are better however I still found plenty on a Saturday. The places where I shopped were as follows and only on the first floor. I found out after I left that there were 2 more floors!
• Sing Mui Heng Pte Ltd: #01-27 (Tel: (65) 6297 0211, email: sales@singmuiheng.com, web: www.singmuiheng.com). Haby galore! Overlocker thread, a huge range of buttons down the back, Swarovski flat backs, all sorts of tools and notions, some items in bulk (e.g. box of 12 tailors chalk).
• Sin Hin Chuan Kee Pte Ltd: #01-08 (Tel: 6298 8622). Stocks the largest range of overlocker threads that I saw. Also stock a HUGE range of YKK zippers. I only bought some trouser zips in basic colours but next time I'll take swatches and zip length for overlocker threads and zips. I wish I had a photo of all the zips - it was awesome!
• Sungai Industrial (S)Co Pte Ltd: #01-10 (Tel: (65) 6294 2642, email: sungai@singnet.com.sg). I think this is more of a supply store for store owners, however I did find some label rolls with '100% Polyester', 'Dry Clean' etc... They were out of '100% silk', '100% wool' and '100% cotton'. She said they could get more in within 2 days but with work I couldn't go back.
• RSK Singapore Pte Ltd: #01-35 (Tel: (65) 6292 7433, email: rsk_singapore@hotmail.com). I only browsed briefly but they have a HUGE range of wools for suits and cottons for shirts (including some designer labels - I saw a lot of Dormeuil, among others). It's about 3 stores wide and rows and rows of fabric on bolts. I didn't end up buying anything and don't know the prices but next time I will go here first for suiting fabrics.
• People’s Park Complex, particularly Nicolexavier shop number 02-1138 (in Chinatown - I took a taxi and ended up in People's Park Complex next door. Look for shop numbers on level 2 that are in the 1000s (e.g. #02-1138). If there are in the 10s or 100s, ask for directions. Most people weren't sure but the guy at the security desk was very helpful! Once you arrive, you'll know because it's an entire floor of fabric stores.
• You could spend a whole day exploring the shops here. I was getting tired by this point, so I just browsed briefly then high-tailed to Nicolexavier.
• Bee Bee Textiles: #02-1136 (Tel: 6533 9490). This was right next to Nicolexavier and I just happened to find a knit that I liked.
• Nicolexavier: #02-1138 (Tel: (65) 6532 7856, email: xavierng@singnet.com.sg). A good range of Linton Tweeds (the mill where Chanel gets their boucles from), Liberty tana lawns and other designer fabrics.
• I ran out of time and energy to go to Spotlight at Plaza Singapura (MRT Station Dhoby Ghaut, then follow the signs to Plaza Singapura - level 5) but I had a brief look the following day. Basically the same as the Aussie stores!
• I also stumbled across Joe's Tailoring & Fashion Design and noticed that they have some great fabrics for suits and shirts that they can tailor for you or you can buy by the metre. I was particularly interested in the Thomas Mason shirt fabrics. I stopped by the one at 50 Market St, Singapore 048940 (Tel:+65 6225 0686, closest MTR is Raffles Place)

Sewing purchases

And now, the photos of my goodies!!

Kadir

Left: Peruzzi Collection Italian Cotton Double - beautiful drapy cotton

Right: Quilting Cotton that will be used for a dress

Aladdin's Exclusive

  

$5/m 'silks' (actually polyester)

 

Border print polyesters and polyester jacquard (both with gems)

German Lace

Alta Moda

 

Amazing wool suiting fabrics.

Left: Super 180's Ultrafine wool Made in Italy by Roberto Di Camerino. This has a very subtle Prince of Wales style check, including red lines. Unique and beautiful.

Right: Superfine Australian wool for Ermenegildo Zegna. Seriously soft and drapey - a stunning fabric.

Left: Valentino tissu (chiffon). So light and flowey - just devine!

Right: Emanuel Ungaro crepe-y chiffon

Chanel wool coat fabric

Collezione

 

Left: Dilara Seta Pura - Italy, Right: Enzo De Luca Seta Pura - Italia

 

Left: Lana Bellucci Seta Pura, Right: Pure Silk

 

Prima Donna 100% Pure Silk Satin and matching chiffon (over my hand)

Sing Mui Heng Pte Ltd

Overlocker thread, lots of shirt and pant buttons, 2 types of tailors chalk and a pattern notcher

Sin Hin Chuan Kee Pte Ltd

Overlocking thread (in colours I like and use but can't find in Australia) and YKK zippers for pants

Sungai Industrial (S)Co Pte Ltd

From memory these were around $5-10 a roll (depending on the size)

Bee Bee Textiles

Knit fabric

Nicolexavier

Left: Cotton Jersey, Right: Cotton Sateen

I can't remember what this is made of but it's lovely!

Linton Tweed and a trim for a Chanel inspired jacket

Summary and Singapore shopping suggestions

• If you can shop on a weekday, that is what I would suggest however most places are still open Saturday. I'm understand that most shopping districts are closed on Sunday and I'm also told that the shops in Arab St close early on a Friday.
• Most stores are open 10-5, although some open earlier at 9am. If you can, get out early before it gets too busy.
• Plan ahead - work out which shops/areas you want to visit and how to get there. A taxi is always an option if you are unsure but I saved the taxis for getting my goodies back to my hotel. The MRT is also an easy way to travel - just work out which station is closest to your location.
• Take a list of what you want/need. It can be easy to get overwhelmed when there are sooo many stores. That being said, sometimes you find fabrics that you may not 'need' but they still manage to follow you home!
• If you have specific zips that you need, take fabric swatches and the zip length. The zipper variety at Sin Hin Chuan Kee Pte Ltd in the Jalan Sultan Textile Centre is huge, so make sure you know what you need!
• Since the overlocking thread colours are limited in Australia, I would take fabric swatches and stock up on overlocking threads in the stores in Jalan Sultan Textile Centre.
• Check your baggage allowance before you travel. Fabric is heavy. Just saying :)

And finally, some tourist-y photos from my trip!

Marina Bay Sands from across the Harbour

Big Prawn Laksa from 3rd Generation (Stall No 2) at ION Orchard - seriously delicious!

The view from 1-Altitude, an open air bar on level 63 with a spectacular 360 degree view of Singapore from 282m

 

The view from New Asia Bar (Level 71 Swissotel Stamford Plaza, Singapore)